Madeleine Vionnet ( 1876- 1975, France), was the first female couturier. She was the one who dared freeing women from wearing the corset completely. She even designed lingerie that were looser, comfortable and women where finally able to have much more freedom of movement.
Her big contribution to couture was the famous “bias” cut dress. I would actually wear her dresses to this days. 🙂
In the 1930’s the internet was not available but the photography was ( of course :-)), and her art of work started to be copied. She fought to protect her work, going as far as having her fingerprint included on the labels.